With the warmer weather just around the corner for our Northern Hemisphere friends, we’ve rounded up our favorite power carving projects perfect for the home and garden. These are great for people at all skill levels, from a complete beginner to a woodworking pro.
All you need is discarded scrap wood, Arbortech tools, and a bit of creativity to complete these simple yet impressive DIY summer projects!
For the ‘maker’ in us all, we selected 5 easy, fun and practical power carving projects that pretty much anyone can do. From woodworker, DIYer, craftsperson or creative, these projects don’t take too long and don’t require too many tools. You can follow the step by step instructions for individual projects if you want guidance or inspiration, otherwise dream big and let your creativity lead the way.
Remember the most important thing is having a go (even if it turns out a bit different than planned) and enjoy tapping into your creativity.
Feel free to leave your comments at the bottom of the project pages and if you complete a project, post it on social media and use the following hashtag #arbortechdiy
Easy to make dinner party utensils that every home needs. Create any shape or style of spoons and add your own touch to suit your home and decor.
This cute little bowl was made from a tree branch we found. It’s the traditional wooden bowl with a few interesting twists, like a textured and burnt band to give it character.
Add a personalised touch to a nursery or children’s playroom with a custom clock design. This project is ideal as a gift or present and easy to adjust to suit any taste.
This project is incredibly versatile as there are so many alternatives to chiselling you can explore. From lettering to kitchen art this will be the start of a whole lot of fun.
Power carve your own laptop stand, with beautiful curves and long lines. You can use almost any type of timber planks for this project, including recycled floorboards.
There is nothing more rewarding than creating something special for the home that you use regularly. Salad servers are a must-have for every kitchen so these popular utensils will appeal to most. If not for your own kitchen, this simple project makes it an easy and thoughtful gift idea. Best of all, there are so many ways that you can really personalize the ‘spoons’ to suit your taste, from the style of the spoons head and handles to the bright coloured thread you use to wrap the handles. Great fun to make and the perfect gift idea too.
Look online (Pinterest is a great resource) or select and draw the outline of your favourite servers. Then find the wood you want to work with. The size will depend on the style of Salad Servers you want to create For our spoons we used timber that was at least 1.5 inches (4cm) thick and 1 foot (30 cm) long.
Once you have your wood and design ready, go ahead and draw or transfer your design onto your timber (top to tail is best to not waste wood). Mark out the bowl of the head of the spoon and separate the spoons (using hand saw) so you are only working on one at a time.
When selecting wood, consider selecting one that has naturally occurring antibacterial properties as you’ll be making utensils designed to serve food. We used Camphor Laurel, but Olive wood is also another good option. You can try your local lumber yard to find the suitable timber.
Clamp and carve
With the Mini Pro Blade, cut the outside of your outline. From there, start to gently carve the excess wood in an outward motion. Do the same evenly all around the spoon. We know it’s fun (especially with the Mini Pro melting the wood away like butter), but don’t worry about shaping the curves of the spoon just yet. That comes in later!
Rough shaping of the handle
Mark out the side profiles. You can either use a side profile template or hand draw it just like we did. It’s easiest to start on the handles as they will be the most consistent part. Gently start on the top side of the handle and carve away the wood until you reach the top of the side profile outline you drew. Then you can start shaping the rounded form of the handle. Turn over and do the same on the back.
The top and the bottom of the spoon is not necessarily flat so you need to consider curves of the spoons from the sides.
Rough shaping the head of the spoon
Gently blend the neck to meet the marked out dish of the spoon. Then hollow out the dish of the spoon which creates a subtle peak where the neck and the bowl meet. Turn over and blend the handle of the spoon into the convex back of the spoon. Slow and steady here is key!
Compare the two spoons and make minor adjustments until you are happy.
Rough sanding / gentle shaping
Sand to further refine the curves of the spoon and remove any rough patches. Start with a coarse grit, then move to finer, until the spoons are ready for final sanding and a completely smooth finish. Your servers should be taking shape at this point with only a few finishing touches to go.
Reduce the speed of the Mini Carver to 3 for controlled fine shaping and sanding, this also avoids burning the wood.
Turn one of the servers into a fork server
With the Mini Pro Blade, carve out a slot in the middle of one of the servers to create a fork server. Switch to a medium grit sanding disc to achieve a smooth finish.
Recessing the handle
Decide how big you want the handle grips to be and mark them out. Clamp the head and carefully recess the marked areas with medium-grit sanding disc and consider the thickness of the thread while you’re doing this.
Final sanding and oiling
You can use any fine grit sandpaper for this, but we used the Contour Sander because it’s a lot easier and faster, giving it a smooth polished finish.
Sand the spoon avoiding the recessed part. A rough handle provides additional friction for the thread to grip to. Now You are ready to oil!
When selecting an oil, select a food-grade oil or as an example, if you use olive oil don’t use cold-pressed.
Add finishing touches
You’re almost there. All you need to do now is to tie up a thread around the handles of the servers to give them a more colourful pop. There are so many thread wrapping techniques, simply find one you like and give it a go!
When selecting thread, consider a synthetic material as it will increase durability.
The kids cloud clock is a fun, easy project that looks great in any nursery or kids playroom and makes a great personalized gift idea. You can get really creative with your own spin on the shape of the clock and colors, giving it a bright happy finish or a funny moody cloud look.
Look for inspiration for your clock shape. We were inspired by a cloud design we found on Pinterest for a nursery and made a few changes to make it our own. We created the rough shape of the cloud and raindrops on the computer then printed it. We simply cut out the cloud and drops, and traced around the outside straight onto the piece of wood. You can download our design here. If you have your own ideas in mind simply sketch straight onto the wood. Make sure you sketch in the sections of the cloud that you want raised to give you a 3D effect and the fluffy cloud-like feel.
Start cutting out the clock
You are ready to start carving. Firmly clamp the timber to a bench and using the Mini Carver with the Mini Pro Blade begin cutting away the outline of the cloud design. Don’t worry about shaping the fluffiness of the clouds yet, this step is all about getting the outline right
Shape the curves giving it 3D elements
When you are happy with the rough outline of the clock it’s time to give it 3D contours and rounded edges. We penciled in the areas that we wanted to carve away to give the cloud a fluffy feel, which we had to redo from time to time as the carving process removed the pencil markings. How aggressively you chose to shape the cloud at this stage really is a matter of taste. We just added gentle contours and relied on the painting to further enhance depth and the shape.
Remember that you want the clock face (the circle with the numbers) to be on a relatively flat surface, so keep the majority of the shaping to the outside.
Shape the back of the clock
Turn the cloud over and continue shaping the outer contours and curves. As the back is where the clock mechanism will be placed it doesn’t really need much 3D shaping. A flat section where clock mechanism will be located will also ensure it fits up against the wall nicely when it is hung.
Rough sanding/ fine shaping
Once you are happy with the general shape of the clock it is time to sand. Attach a relatively coarse sandpaper grit to the flexible sanding pad and then onto the Mini Carver. It is important to adjust the speed of the tool to around 3, to ensure you don’t over do the shaping or burn the wood. Play with the setting to see what works best for you.
Drilling the hole for the clock mechanism shaft
Mark out where you want the numbers on the face of the clock to sit and where the centre is. This is where the shaft of the clock mechanism will come through and where you need to drill a hole. Make sure your drill bit is wider than the diameter of the clock shaft, so it fits through easily.
Carve out the timber to fit the clock mechanism
On the back of the cloud you will need to hollow out the wood to allow for the clock mechanism to be positioned. Mark out the side of the mechanism (ours was square) and start to carefully carve using theMini Pro with the Mini Turbo Blade. (You can also use the TURBO Shaft).
Just keep an eye on the depth of the hole as you carve. You want to ensure the clock shaft comes out on the front side of the clock, and allows enough space to fit the hands.
The depth of the void is crucial to making the mechanism sit properly out the front. This may require multiple test fits and adjustments. Be patient and trust in the process!
Sand some more
Using the Mini Carver sanding attachment, use a finer grit sandpaper this time and sand the entire clock to achieve a smooth finish. You can then use the Contour Sander to further smooth out the surfaces or hand sand with fine-grit sandpaper to finish.
Time to shape the raindrops
Shape the raindrops using the Mini Carver and the Mini Pro by carefully clamping each raindrop to a table and gently shaping the curves.
This part can be a bit tricky depending on the side of the rain drops. When clamping smaller items, sometimes small scrap piece of wood help to hold it in place.
Make the back of the raindrops flat so they sit straight against the wall.
Sand the raindrops
Go back to the Mini Carver Sanding attachment, start with the coarse grit and make your way to the finer sandpaper. By the time you are finished that should feel relatively smooth.
Make sure you sand the back of the raindrops flat just like you carved them.
This part is really up to you but as we weren’t very aggressive in shaping the cloud so we used the paint to give the clock additional depth.
We covered the cloud with a white base and feathered out the blue paint to accentuate the curves and the fluffiness of the cloud. We also chose 4 different colours for each raindrop and used poster paint with a pearl additive to achieve a shimmery look.
We also gave the clock face a cute little smile with sleepy eyes. Perfect for the nursery.
Fit the mechanism
Fit the clock mechanism and the numbers (You can also chisel out the numbers if you wish)
Hang it up!
Set the clock the time, put batteries in it and hang on the wall. Voilla! P.S. We won’t blame you if you spend the entire afternoon admiring your clock.
Every now and then, you might find yourself bored with a space and just want to add that little bit of oomph! Well, a chiseled sign could be the perfect thing to spruce up your home and give it more character. With just a little wood and paint, you can create something that can change the way a space looks and feels. The best thing about these signs is that they’re super easy to make and you can choose any design that your heart desires!
Need a dose of DIY signs in your life? Read more to learn how you can make one super fast!
Find inspiration for your design from anywhere you like
Get inspiration from the most creative part of your brain or…. Pinterest, otherwise use our template. We created a simple little design on the computer. Then before printing, we flipped the design so that it becomes a mirror image and printed it the exact size we wanted the project to be.
Transfer onto the wood using acetone (nail polish remover)
Lay the image face down on the wood, and using a rag soaked with nail polish remover rub the liquid over all the printed parts of the design. The acetone should soak the paper, which will transfer the ink onto the wood, giving you a perfect design template to follow. Make sure you take your time and apply firm pressure.
If you’re confident, you can freehand draw your own design onto the panel instead of transferring it.
Chisel out the outline
Secure the wood on a solid surface using clamps. We used the Power Chisel, for the whole project as it’s easy and fun. To ensure the ‘coffee’ lettering had sharp edges we used the 60 degree deep V (8mm) that comes with the Power Chisel. First horizontally across the grain, then vertically along the grain. As a ‘Rule of Thumb’, Chisel the outline, outermost ink line of the letter or image first, then remove wood inside the outline.
Chisel out the rest
We used a combination of the 60 degree deep V (8mm) and the 90 degree deep V (18mm) to chisel out the rest of the lettering. For larger areas where you need a smoother chiselled area, use the 20mm shallow gouge chisel. You can also use the 7mm deep and shallow gouges for detailed carving. All these chisel profiles come with the Power Chisel.
When cutting a curve, always cut away from the grain instead of carving into the grain to avoid the wood splitting.
Once we are finished with all the lettering and chiselling, we decided to add another design feature and chisel out a recessed border. For this, we used the 90 Degree deep V (18mm). So get creative! You can chisel any kind of frame that suits your design. The sky is your limit!
Paint your masterpiece!
Use a thick water-based acrylic paint (poster paint) to paint the chiselled out areas. Be mindful of the type of paint you use as some types of water based paint will soak into the wood and give is a slightly blurred look.
Apply a generous amount of paint and don’t be afraid of spreading the paint around and going out of the carved out edges. We know, it’ll look hideous, but don’t worry, we’ll get rid off the excess paint soon!
Once the paint is dry, sand off the excess paint using any type of sander you have handy (we used the Contour Sander). You can even hand sand if you wish! Use a medium-fine sanding paper to get rid of excess paint. Then use a fine grit to finish the surface of the timber. To remove and additional wood chips and dust, use a clean, dry brush.
Apply a clear finish of your desire.
You can use oil or wax to finish off your sign. If you’re planning on hanging this project indoors, use a non-toxic finish, and be mindful of fumes.
Add sign hangers
Drill a small hole with a fine drill bit to avoid splitting the wood from the screw. Be sure not to drill out to the other side.
Hang it up
Find a rope or a sturdy twine and tie it to the sign hangers to hang up the sign.
Heutzutage findet man in so gut wie jedem Haushalt zumindest einen Laptop oder ein Tablet und so gesehen gibt es kaum eine bessere Möglichkeit Individualität und Kreativität zu zeigen, als mit einem eigens kreierten Laptop Ständer. Dieses Projekt ist für jeden DIY Liebhaber sehr leicht umzusetzen.
Es empfiehlt sich die Holzplatten nach dem Zusammenkleben über Nacht trocknen zu lassen, da der Trocknungsprozess einige Stunden in Anspruch nehmen kann. Das Zuschneiden der Holzbretter, das Schnitzen, das Schleifen und das Ölen benötigt hingegen weniger Zeit. Dieses Projekt ist für alle geeignet die einen schnellen Erfolg sehen möchten.
Bauholz ist nicht immer schnell verfügbar, aber es gibt unzählige Alternativen. Du findest Holzbretter grundsätzlich in jedem Baumarkt, kannst aber genauso gut alte Holzdielen oder anderes recyceltes Holz verwenden.
Wähle dein ganz eigenes Design oder benutze einfach unser Modell.
Schneide die Holzbretter in die gewünschte Tiefe deines Ständers.
Wir haben 2 Holzbretter verwendet(240mm Länge und 120mm Breite) – schneide diese in 300mm lange Rechtecke.
Sollten Teile des Holzbrettes verzogen sein (wie dies bei uns der Fall war) verwende diese Rechtecke NICHT für die weitere Bearbeitung.
Trage den Kleber auf beiden Seiten auf und streiche anschließend mit einem Schaber gleichmäßig über die gesamte Fläche. Wiederhole diesen Vorgang nun bei jedem Stück bis du die gewünschte Breite deines Ständers erreicht hast.
Lege beispielsweise Backpapier unter, damit das Werk nicht auf der Werkbank haften bleibt.
Wir haben Schraubzwingen verwendet. Wichtig ist, dass du hierbei darauf achtest, dass die Klemmen groß genug sind um alle mit Klebstoff bearbeiteten Teile zusammenzuhalten und deine gewünschte Breite für den Laptop Ständer ergibt. Achte beim Anbringen der Klemmen darauf sie stufenweise und mit gleichmäßigem Druck zu befestigen, sodass sie unter gleichmäßigem Druck zusammengehalten werden. Wir haben PVA Kleber für den Innen- und Außenbereich verwendet. Die Trocknungszeit beträgt mindestens 24 Stunden.
Mach dir keine Gedanken, wenn Kleber an der seite herausquillt. Du kannst den Kleber am Ende einfach wegschleifen.
24 Stunden warten
Schneide das Seitenprofil deines gewählten Designs aus und skizziere es auf die Seite an welcher das Holz zusammengeleimt ist.
Klemmen und fräsen
Mit der TURBO Plane Frässcheibe kannst du nun vorsichtig die Rundungen fräsen. Starte mit der Unterseite deines Holzblocks bis du zu der Außenlinie des Seitenprofils an den Rändern kommst. Arbeite dich von unten nach oben indem du dich mit der Turbo Plane von unten beginnend abwechselnd von links nach rechts Richtung oben arbeitest bis du eine glatte Oberfläche hast, welche in einer Ebene mit dem Seitenprofil ist.
Sobald du mit der groben Form der Unterseite zufrieden bist, kannst du mit der Oberseite beginnen. Drehe nun deinen Laptop Ständer um und gehe bei der Oberseite genauso vor wie bei der Unterseite. Das Design der Oberseite ist ein wenig anders, da es eine kleine Wölbung zur Stützung des Laptops oder Tablets hat. Behalte dies im Hinterkopf wenn du die Oberseite bearbeitest.
Sobald du mit der Form deines Laptops/Tablets Ständer bist, ist es Zeit für das Schleifen. Wir haben ein 100mm Sanding Pad verwendet, aber du kannst grundsätzlich jede beliebige Art von Schleifpapier verwenden. Für den letzten Feinschliff haben wir auch noch den Contour Sander, welchen du auch durch Sandpapier mit Feinkörnung ersetzen könntest, verwendet, aber da wir die Werkzeuge haben, dachten wir können wir diesen Schritt dadurch vereinfachen.
Wenn du mit der Form deines Laptop Ständers zufrieden bist geht es im letzten Schritt an das Ölen.
Abhängig von der Oberfläche die du gerne hättest, kannst du das Holz nun mit Lack versiegeln, was es glänzen lässt, oder für den matten Look mit Wachs bearbeiten.
Keys, snacks, fruits. What do they all have in common? You probably have bowls for them around the house. There’s definitely something magical in carving a bowl that you can actually use, and surprisingly, they’re super easy to create and take less time than you may think. So get your creative juices flowing, find some scrap wood and follow us on a journey from log to bowl.
We found a tree branch (6”, 150mm in diameter) which dictated the size of the bowl and ended up as a small decorative bowl. We wanted something a little less conventional so we decided to go with an oval shape for the bowl… also because it worked well with the shape of the branch. Finally we decided to add a few little extra design elements so opted for a black textured band and little feet.
Using the TURBO Plane, plane the top and bottom level to create two flat surfaces, it’s pretty straight forward.
Mark the oval shape for the outline of the top of the bowl to suit the width of the log or branch. With the TUBRO Plane shape the outline of the bowl creating an elliptical cylinder. This requires a bit of patience and a light touch. Gentle gentle here are you don’t want to cut any large chunks that will impact the symmetry of the bowl.
Don’t worry about shaping the rounded curves at the bottom just yet.
Mark the inside of the bowl that you intend to hollow out.
Make sure to leave the wall thick enough for additional shaping from the outside to later create the 3D textured band.
Using the Ball Gouge on a 45 degree angle to start, hollow out the inside of the bowl, being careful not to be too aggressive as you need to leave room for adding the feet at the bottom as well as recessing on the outside of the bowl to create the raised black band.
When you are happy with the general shape of the bowl, it’s time for the first sand. Sand the inside as well as around the outside of the bowl. We used the Contour Sander, because it’s really quick at sanding curves but you can use any type of sander.
Don’t worry about being too thorough as the most important part at this stage to sand is where you wish to position the textured band.
Creating the textured band
It’s time to create your textured band. Once you know what pattern you want, mark out the width of the band around the outside of the bowl. Using the Ball Gouge lightly create a ripple texture making sure to cover the entire area where you marked the band as well as on the lines, as they will be cut back later.
Before you start texturing your bowl make sure you have a little practice on a scrap piece of wood until you perfect your pattern.
Add fire to your Bowl!
We used a propane torch (or you could use a Creme Brulee kitchen torch) to give the ripple texture a nice charcoal colour which really brought out the pattern the Ball Gouge made.
This part was a lot of fun!
Creating the raised band
Lightly pencil the the width of the band. Then using the TURBO Plane carefully and lightly start start removing above and below the pencilled marks. This bit can be a bit tricky. You will eventually have a complete raised textured band.
Don’t worry if it’s not even, it all adds to the character of the bowl.
Curving the bottom of the bowl
Once you are happy with the band turn the bowl over and lightly curve the edges to round the bottom leaving enough wood to carve the feet.
Giving your bowl little feet
We gave our bowl 4 little feet. We started using the Ball Gouge to run down the middle of the feet length ways, and then crossways. This should give you the rough shape for the feet. We tidied them up a little, very carefully with the TURBO Plane.
Sanding and oiling
Last steps, which really brings out the beautiful grain and colour of the wood. Gently sand the bowl being careful with the little feet and avoiding the band. Dust off your creation and it’s ready to oil.
Every year at Arbortech, we are enthusiastically encouraged to participate in the annual Staff Power Carving Competition.
The rules are simple:
Dream up any type of woodworking project
Use at least 1 Arbortech tool
Finish it in 3 months
At the end of the 3 months, we create a pop-up art exhibition held for one afternoon filled with laughter, music, delicious food and prizes.
It’s an interesting ‘mixed bag’ of people that work at Arbortech, from super competitive enthusiasts to more reserved humble creators. Every one of them is respected and appreciated for their contribution to the competition and of course, the part they play in the company.
Some people didn’t start their projects until a few days before the deadline (typical student style), others started on day one and chipped away at their projects every day. A few hadn’t ever picked up a power tool in their life, so needed a little guidance and a practice piece of wood to work on before they found their groove.
Regardless of their skill level or style, everyone contributed something pretty cool by the time of the exhibition. As creators of truly unique quality tools, understanding how easy it is to ‘create’ something from a scrap piece of wood feels pretty good.
All in all, it’s incredible to see the beautiful finished pieces, some of which look like they belong in an art gallery, created by people who are relatively new to the world of power carving.
Name: Melting Clock – Running Out of Time
Inspiration: Salvador Dali and the alarming rate of global warming
Wood: Camphor Laurel
Tools Used: Mini Carver with Mini Pro and Sander, Power Chisel, Contour Sander, TURBO Shaft, TURBO Plane, Sanding Pad on Power Carving Unit
Name: Octo Beer Caddy Pus
Inspiration: Being recycled boat timber, I decided to make a nautical themed item. I also wanted something practical to use
Wood: Puon Pine – Recycled Boat Timber
Tools Used: Mini Carver, Power Chisel, Mini Pro
Name: Console Table
Inspiration: I needed a table for my hallway at home and thought this console table would work well
Wood: Jarrah – Recycled picket fence
Tools Used: Power Carving Unit, Levelling Guide, Chip Catcher, TURBO Plane, Sanding Pad, Contour Sander
Name: Bunny Stool
Inspiration: I wanted to make my nieces a cute little stool they can sit on and play with
Wood: White Gum
Tools Used: Bandsaw, TURBO Plane, Sanding Pad, Power Carving Unit
Name: Don Gato
Inspiration: My Beautiful cat and how annoying my toilet’s door is
Wood: Olive Wood
Tools Used: Mini Carver, Mini Industrial, Mini Pro, Power Carving Unit, TURBO Plane, Sanding Pad, Contour Sander
Name: Treasure Chest
Inspiration: A jewellery box for my daughter. The piece of wood reminded me of a pirate treasure chest, which is why I chose it
Tools Used: TURBO Plane, Ball Gouge, Contour Sander, Power Carving Unit, Bandsaw
Name: My Favourite Three
Inspiration: Three of my favourite coffee mugs
Wood: Olive Wood
Tools Used: Mini Carver, Ball Gouge, TURBO Shaft, Mini TURBO, Sanding Pad, Contour Sander, Power Carving Unit
Name: Wok Trivet
Inspiration: Asian Wok has curved bottom which will not sit well on a normal trivet so I made one specifically for my work
Tools Used: Mini Pro, TURBO Plane, Contour Sander, Power Carving Unit
Name: Tired Mama
Inspiration: As a busy mum of an energetic toddler, I wanted an easy project
Wood: White Gum
Tools Used: TURBO Shaft, Power Carving Unit, Sanding Pad
Name: Turbo Plane
Inspiration: A chunky cartoon appearance which also makes it resistant to the crashes and bumpy life of a toy
Inspiration: To use up wood left over from my renovation
Wood: Offcut Plywood
Tools Used: Power Carving Unit, Sanding Pad, Mini TURBO, Sanding Pad, Contour Sander
Name: Lovin’ Spoonful
Inspiration: Whilst on retreat at Jhana Grove I was doing a lot of walking through the forest, flowers and fallen timber. This piece of wood caught my attention on a possible ladle, to ladle loving kindness or metta
Tools Used: Mini TURBO, Contour Sander
Name: Layered Flower Dish
Inspiration: I really wanted to do something with Plywood as it has those lovely layers. Wasn’t really sure what I was doing so just made something simple
Wood: Marine Plywood
Tools Used: TURBO Plane, Mini Carver, Contour Sander, Power Carving Unit
Inspiration: People and Diversity
Inspiration: I always wanted to sculpt a piece inspired by nature. This was my first attempt and I really enjoyed it
Wood: Recycled Australian Red Gum
Tools Used: Power Carving Unit, TURBO Plane, Mini Carver, Power Chisel, Contour Sander
Name: Round Stool
Inspiration: Created using a “poor man’s lathe”. I wanted to make something freehand but round at the same time
Wood: Recycled Spotted Gum / Lemon Scented Gum
Tools Used: Power Carving Unit, TURBO Plane, Sanding Pad, Industrial Woodcarver, Ball Gouge, Contour Sander
Name: Bench Seat
Inspiration: I needed a bench in the bedroom to put my shoes/socks on while sitting as my bed is too high
Wood: Red Gum (furniture grade)
Tools Used: TURBO Plane, Power Carving Unit, Sanding Pad, Contour Sander
Name: Vessel Collection
Inspiration: I wanted to showcase the scope of Arbortech woodwroking tools
Wood: Jarrah, Karri and Desert Bark
Tools Used: Ball Gouge, Mini Carver, Contour Sander, Power Carving Unit
Name: Mallee Skull
Inspiration: To create a usable piece and to make it look as natural as possible
Wood: Mallee Root
Tools Used: Ball Gouge, Mini Carver, Industrial Blade, Mini Ball Gouge, Contour Sander, TURBO Shaft, Power Carving Unit
Name: ‘Hoot’ The long eared Owl
Inspiration: Saw a Postcard in St Albans Cathederal, England that had an owl photo. I purchased it and then used it as a plan for my carving
Tools Used: TURBO Plane, Power Chisel, TURBO Shaft, Contour Sander, Mini Carver
Name: Lady of the Lake
Inspiration: What I saw in the wood
Tools Used: Every Arbortech tool!
Wood: Offcut pine
Tools Used: Industrial Blade, Power Carving Unit, Mini TURBO, Ball Gouge, Sanding Pad, Contour Sander
Name: Less is more
Inspiration: I needed a soap dish for the newly renovated bathroom. I decided to create minimalistic soap dish that combines square and round geometric forms, and textured, tactile surfaces
Tools Used: Mini TURBO, Ball Gouge, Power Chisel
Name: Olive Wood Baguette Natter
Inspiration: Friends used a ceramic version at a dinner party recently
Tools Used: TURBO Plane, Ball Gouge, Contour Sander, Power Carving Unit
This funky wood chair is hand carved from a single piece of Oak. Sculpted by Touch Wood Sculptures, it is retailing for approximately $7000 AUD! Taken from a 250 year old Oak tree that was felled for safety reasons, the Oak’s new form is minimalist, modern and somewhat rustic. The Industrial Woodcarver is a would be ideal for the initial removal of stock, followed by the TURBO Plane for the planing and medium sculpting components. The Mini Grinder would be the perfect option for getting into those tight spots around the arms and legs.
No.9 – Puzzle Stools
Wooden Puzzle Chair / Table (artist/ date unknown). This would be a great project to let the kids get involved with. Each piece is an individual stool or when combined it becomes a coffee table, talk about versatility and creativity in the home. Make the base of each piece out of solid timber for a more artistic or sculpted look with the TURBO Plane. Use the TURBO Shaft to create the puzzle shapes around the edges. You could also power carve or power chisel your family members names on each piece for a personalized touch – each piece belonging to a different family member but when put together it is symbolic of the family unit.
No.8 – Hugo Franca
This large wooden bench is a Cocoon like piece carved from trunks by Brazilian designer, Hugo Franca. Very cool piece of functional art.
No.7 – Leaf Chair
For Art Nouveau fans, this sculptural wood chair is from the Mountain Region of France, c1900. The carved detail in the leaf veins along with the narrow hard to reach places in the back legs can be power carved quickly and easily with the Mini Grinder.
No.6 – Hand Stools
We could barely handle ourselves when we came across these two hand inspired wood bar stools. Created in the 1960’s by Pedro Friedebergthese eclectic stools would add a touch of creativity and fun to any home. If you don’t feel ready to take on the bar stool size, why not create an ornament sized version for your home entry table!
No.5 – Anthropomorphic
This funky chair was made from Birch Plywood; it is called “Anthropomorphic” and was designed by Sergio Gill.
No.4 – David Delthony
A carved, laminated plywood chair created by David Delthony, c1985.
To sculpt a wood chair like this, (obviously adding a bit of your own style and flair!) you’ll need to stack laminate timber and bind them together with a strong wood adhesive such as Gorilla Wood Glue. Allow to set for a day or two and start sketching the design with a carpenter’s pencil. Power carve excess plywood away with the TURBO Plane in line with the design. You will need to alternate angling the TURBO Plane – flat to achieve a planning effect and on a slight angle to achieve the varying curves of this flowing design. You may need to consider the Mini TURBO or Mini Grinder to reach into the smaller concave areas such as the back rest. Plane the right side a bit more than this version to achieve a flat surface for your tea or coffee!
No.3 – Glemham
Sophisticated and intricate – The “Glemham” by Alex Johnson took 6 months to complete with the help of tools such as Chisels and Gauges. Alex believes that people will admire his effort and decorate their home with this special wood chair. While this project was carved with traditional hands tools one could easily use power carving tools to create this magnificent carving in a fraction of the time.
No.2 – Dragon Throne
This Dragon throne made it to No.2 because of it’s size and intricate design / detail (artist/ date unknown). Game of Thrones fans would appreciate this throne in their home, perhaps a smaller version though…?
No.1 Scorpion Seat
This cool and crazy Scorpion chair made it to No.1! It was made by Russian artist Vyacheslav Pakhomov. This handcrafted scorpion chair measures in at six and a half feet and is available with leather upholstery and a variety of wood finishes.
If the translation on his website is correct, it does seem to be available for purchase for the relatively modest sum of approximately $3,636.