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Everything you need to cut out failed mortar joints cleanly — square, consistent depth, no chipped arrises and no clouds of spinning dust.
Raking out with an angle grinder is fast but brutal — overcut corners, damaged brick faces and silica dust thrown across the site. Tuckpointing is finish work, and the prep decides the result.
The ALLSAW's oscillating twin blades cut mortar out like a hand saw with power behind it: square ends, controlled depth, minimal vibration through the wall and dust that stays at the blade instead of in the air.
Technique
The ALLSAW's counter-oscillating blades don't spin, so there's no kickback and no gouging when you track along a bed joint. Cut to a consistent depth, square up the ends of each joint and leave clean faces ready for new mortar.
Explore ALLSAW 200X
Recommended tools
One saw, the right blade for the joint and dust extraction on the boot — that's the whole setup for clean repointing prep.
Power tool
The oscillating masonry saw built for controlled, low-dust joint removal.
Blade
Purpose-made for raking mortar joints to a clean, even depth.
Blade
The all-rounder for opening up joints and general masonry cutting.
Dust control
Hook up extraction and keep silica dust at the cut, not in the air.
The process
The same sequence works on a single elevation or a whole facade.
Step 1
Track the tuckpointing blade along bed and head joints to a consistent depth — typically twice the joint width — squaring the ends as you go.
Step 2
Brush and flush loose material from the joint, then dampen the substrate so the wall doesn't pull moisture out of the new mortar.
Step 3
Pack mortar in firm layers and strike the profile to match the original work — the clean cut is what makes the finish crisp.
Keep exploring
From single-brick swaps to full heritage conservation — same saw, different blades.
