Are your Sticky Sanders flying off of your Contour Sander mid use? If you are a user of the adhesive disc method then you are probably well aware that the adhesive discs perform best at finishing sanding. We recommend heavy sanding with the heavy duty discs followed by the adhesive discs to remove any scratches left from the flange of the Heavy Duty Discs.
The trick to stopping the Adhesive Discs from coming off of your Contour Sander is to keep the backing pad clean. We have provided past methods of cleaning your Arbortech Contour Sander pads with acetone, cleaning spirits etc. Here is a quick and easy way to clean your Contour Sander’s backing pad using a rubber eraser or if you are short an eraser – your thumb! If you would prefer to watch the video on how to do this, click here: How To Clean Your Arbortech Contour Sander Pads
As you know, the Contour Sander is ideal for sanding internal curves and contours by utilizing adhesive backed sanding discs. We have received many questions as to why we opted for this method. The reason is simply because the Sticky Sanders allow you to follow profiles nicely, and this also eliminates the problems experienced with the hook and loop method.
Adhesive residue on the rubber pads
When you are continually changing the adhesive/ sticky sanding discs, a certain amount of adhesive tends to build ups on the rubber backing pad. Where there is a combination of adhesive and dust accumulation on the backing pads it can prevent adhesive discs from sticking properly, so your discs will tend to come off too easily.
Previously Kevin recommended you simply wipe down the rubber pad using acetone or paint thinners but not everyone has these materials on hand. Since then Kevin has found it is much more convenient to simply rub the adhesive disc with your thumb; which works particularly well if it is warm from use.
Rub the pad with your thumb
You can actually roll the adhesive off the backing pad with your finger. This is a convenient method unless there is too much adhesive build up. Then best option for this scenario is using a standard soft pencil rubber eraser.
Use a normal soft rubber eraser
Put the eraser into a vice and then bring the Contour Sander backing pad into contact with the eraser while it is running. Within a few seconds it will rub off the adhesive build up very quickly. When you are mounting the eraser into the vice, the trick is to mount it very low so only a centimeter or so is above the level surface. If the eraser is protruding to much, it will simply vibrate and break when you bring the Arbortech Contour Sander into contact with it.
Mount the eraser in the vice and run the Contour Sander over the eraser
Now place your Arbortech Contour Sander over the eraser and switch your grinder on. The eraser will pull the adhesive off the Contour Sander’s backing pad quite easily and leave it nice and clean. If there is still adhesive on the pad, just repeat the process until you are satisfied with the end result. Once the adhesive has been completely removed off the Contour Sander’s backing pad, you can attach a sticky adhesive disc onto the backing pad and get back to sanding!
Super clean rubber pad!
There you go folks, a new quick and easy way to clean your Arbortech Contour Sanding pad. Click on any of the images above to watch this tutorial tip on our YouTube Arbortech Woodworking Channel.
Try this simple tip of cleaning your Contour Sander pads and let us know how you found this new cleaning method by leaving a comment in the section below. We would love to hear your thoughts!
If after trying this method you are still experiencing issues with your sticky sanders not quite sticking, please contact email@example.com.
I used leftover 12mm marine ply from the floor of my boat. I traced the fish off a photo by eye onto one of the pieces and roughly band sawed it out. I used that as a template to draw it onto three more pieces and band sawed them all out.
The four fish shaped pieces of ply were laminated using Aquadhere, a wood glue. I used the TURBO Plane to rough out the form of the fish, using the layering in the wood to help with the contours (see unfinished picture showing the contours). It was finished with the Mini TURBO and Contour Sander prior to using diluted food colouring to add the colour.
Winner of the judging Panel Prize was won by Junior Linke (Blade supervisor) for his lamp which he called “Natural Light”. Junior was inspired to make this after seeing a guy carve a cowboy hat in the States while working at a Wood Show. He used a lovely Mallee Burl piece for the shade which is a very hard West Australian wood and a piece of Olive wood for the base and centre pole.
1) Junior’s first step was to rough out the centre of the burl with the TURBO Plane checking the depth regularly so as not to go through. Then sand the outside and Junior used the Contour Random Sander. He then started planning down the piece of Olive wood to eventually make a cylinder for the stand which he then sanded.
2) Once he was happy with the thickness of the burl shade he used the TURBO Plane to start taking the thickness down. The best outcome would be to end up with a very thin layer of wood which will allow enough light to penetrate when illuminated.
3) After sanding the inside of the shade, Junior then started work on the base of Olive wood. He basically followed the shape of the wood using the TURBO Plane and TURBO Shaft before sanding off with the Contour Sander. You might also notice his very inventive way of holding the shade in place which was scraps of high density foam glued together with the basic shape left hollow and a great “clamp” for the shade.
4) He then used the TURBO Shaft for drilling a hole suitable for slotting in the stand. Once he had done this, he glued the stand into the hole. Before gluing he drilled a centre hole in the stand for the wiring and fitted the electrical fitting to the end.
Steve is the Financial Controller at Arbortech and has discovered his love of woodworking after using Arbortech tools, he has won the staff competition 2 years in a row. His piece started out as a piece of Sheoak (West Australian timber) which he salvaged from his brother’s property many years ago so the there is a lovely aged colour to the wood.
The shape of the wood basically dictated shape of the sculpture and he started to play with hollowing out the log by using the Mini TURBO. He then used the TURBO Shaft to get into those hard to reach places and create the deep channels as well as gently smoothing the shape of the wood.
Once he was happy with the overall shape he used the Contour Sander to sand the piece together with some hand sanding where needed. Steve had always intended to put on some metal off cuts from the Arbortech Brick & Mortar Saw blades to represent his family however during the making of the piece it became more about life’s experience and journey.
Putting these metal pieces onto the piece proved to be one of the most difficult tasks due to their size and the way he wanted to attach them to the wood. Steve pre-drilled all the holes and each piece of metal was screwed with 2 screws. He then finished off the whole piece with oil.
Steve plans to mount the piece on a metal square with a supporting bracket to hold it upright in the garden.
Well it’s that time of year again when all of our staff are encouraged to make something using Arbortech tools.The idea was to help everyone understand how the tools work and what they can be used on so we can all help our customers questions and queries with real experience and knowledge. This is now the third staff competition we have had and the benefits have far outweighed our expectations and any hesitation anyone might have had before starting their project has gone. We now have people planning their project way ahead of the start date and hear stories of working late into the night sanding and shaping. All new employees are encouraged by others to get started so creativity and healthy competition is well and truly alive and well. We are very proud of everyone for participating in this competition and producing such a wonderfully high standard pieces.
I am going to write up some blogs about each piece over the coming months and while I am getting the photos and stories together for these I thought it was probably easy for me to write about my own entry first. As a Director of Arbortech, some people think that being married to Kevin and being around woodworking for the last 30 years that I would be quite good at using our tools. The truth is that I am not and can be considered as much of a novice as most other staff. So onto my entry which won runner up prize from the independent judging panel…
THE SEED POD by Kristine Inkster
We recently picked up some lovely wood called Sheoak which was cut down by mistake by the local council who had left several logs of approx. 30cm (12”) diameter.
I chose a piece which I estimate to be approx. 60cm (24”) long and decided to carve a bowl. The wood looked like it had been cut a couple of months previously so it was still quite green. I first started by using the TURBO Plane to smooth the surfaces and give me a nice surface to work with.
Once I had a block to work with I marked out the rough shape of the opening I wanted in my bowl and started with the TURBO Plane and then continued with the Mini TURBO due to the tight opening I had penciled.
The Mini TURBO was great and easy to use and as I had made a bit of a wave shape on the top of my bowl so I could get in and under this.
The shaping part of my bowl was done in about an hour and a half so I then started using the Mini Grinder sanding discs with 60 grit. After the rough sanding was finished I used the Contour Random Sander with some finer sanding discs attached and this was great for getting up under the lip and into the bowl.
After I had finished the sanding there was some splitting in the wood happening as it was still a little green so I started filling it with some resin and waited for it to dry. After a day or so it was cracked some more so I filled it some more. This went on for several days until I decided that I would never end up filling all the cracks and knocked out the resin and sanded back the crack to make it a feature.
I then painted a Black Japan stain onto the outside to give it a point of difference which I am happy with and hence the name seed pod. I finished it off with some wax on the outside and oil on the inside.
Read on to see a guide on how to create this Easter bunny project and also watch the video of the project in progress.
The shape of the Easter Bunny is very simple so that is also for a beginner with no experience in carving sculptures feasible.
Arbortech Tools Used:
For German customers, you can purchase Arbortech tools here.
For Australian, US and international customers, Arbortech tools are available here.
Project Completion Time: 2 hours
As the material we use this time a trunk made of wood. It is advantageous if the timber is already dry otherwise the rabbit could get through the drying cracks later. The log used by us was still very fresh and very humid. The log should be initially divided by pencil marks in four areas.
Hull of the Rabbit
Now, it is advisable to individually edit each view. I’ve been using the Arbortech TURBO Plane started to carve the back part, and then the page views was made and at the end of the front view. Thus, at some point A square hare. By doing so, you can very well correct and check if it looks good, the shape of hares. If you are happy with all views, the edges are broken and you can set individual body parts molding.
The ears I have done as a precaution the very end because I was worried that you could give me to cancel it by mistake. With the Industrial Woodcarver the shape of the ears will end up caught up and removed the connector between the two spoons. The Woodcarver is also well suited to shape the ears. The delicate ears I then worked up by Arbortech TURBO Plane. Since the TURBO Plane cutter disk is not only suitable for rough work but also for fine finishing work was also this work slight of hand. As a last resort, we could not indicated by the Industrial Wood Carver front and rear paws.
Finish the decoration is Easter Bunny!
Click on the image to watch the video of this project below.
The Arbortech TURBO Plane is reviewed by Bob Duncan in the Fall 2014 issue of Woodcarving Illustrated Magazine.
Bob says about the TURBO Plane; “When I first tried the TURBO Plane, I set my feet firmly, grabbed the grinder, braced my shoulders and wrists, and applied the tool to the wood. I was pleasantly surprised at how little resistance I felt as wood sliced off the blank. This tool moves wood without causing wrist, arm and shoulder fatigue.”
This nifty woodworking project, the mustache clock, is a great gift idea or a bit of quirky home decor to display on your mantel, bookshelf or counter.
Time required: Approximately 2 hours
Arbortech tools required:
Woodcarver’s Starter Kit 5 Chisel Pack
Wood used: old stair oak
Our woodworking dealer from Germany created this version of the mustache clock however written in German, we have translated to English in this blog post.
You can build very small or witty gifts with Arbortech tools. Here is the new hipster clock tinker itself. On this page you will find an instruction manual how to use less material and cost a great Mustache (Moustache) can build clock. The material used for the clock an old stair oak was used.
First, a mustache is printed glued to the wood pile and cut with a band saw. Of course you could also form the basis of a Wood Carver Rout, in our case, we have used a band saw.
The Mustache Dial
The mini turbo kit we cut a rectangular hole in the fits the movement. It could use a template, since the recess is not visible later you can mill freehand them too. The front of the clock is also dealt with the mini turbo kit. Only the outer ends are thinner then cut the edges rounded off with the small Schnitzfräser. If the shape of the timber profile of a mustache corresponds to it can be a bit sanded with coarse sandpaper. However, it should not be too smooth grind coarsely ground as it works better him. The Turbo Chisel and a 90 ° chisel from the 5-MultiPart chisel set then some grooves carved into his mustache. To set the clock to color wood stain color mahogany was used. After the stain dry the clock was once again sanded to obtain a Vinitage look.
Finally, the movement is mounted. When you buy a clockwork it are the waves for the pointer as long as possible. Most of the dial thickness is specified in movements. The thicker it may remain the easier it is to produce.
Click on the image below to watch the project video (please note: video is in German).
For the original video of this mustache clock project (and in English), below is Arbortech’s video.
Different wood species are good for different purposes and uses.
This blog post we will be putting larch wood in the spotlight. This wood is the ideal wood and perfect for exterior work and furniture.
Read on for the rundown on larch wood.
In practical medicine the bark of Larch and resin were used for respiratory and kidney ailments as well as in bandages for burns
Larch prefers to grow alone in full sunlight
It’s habitat is Russian Siberia with plenty of swamps, bogs and moist soil
When Larch is properly processed, its inherent beauty becomes more vivid
Due to its legendary properties Larch is considered to be one of the best among the wood types. It used to be especially popular in Venice, Italy and other great marinas
Larch wood has become a staple of residential and commercial applications
Larch is resistant to extreme climate conditions, repels, insect and fungus attacks, and is not harmed by acids or alkalis. It possesses inherent silica content and natural oils, which eliminate the need of using any preservatives or sealants
Larch may be left untreated for years and yet be easily restored to its original golden brown color, although some prefer to add some color to it
The beauty and durability of Larch has led to its lasting popularity in the production of outdoor decking and interior decorative trim, as well as all military and commercial European ships until XIXth Century
Larch is the ideal wood for decking, for it’s become the standard of excellence. Boat builders have appreciated natural characteristics of Larch for centuries; its unparalleled durability, workability and resistance to all extremes of climate. Larch wood remains unaffected by insects, fungus, acids or alkalis. The natural oils eliminate the need for preservatives and sealants used to prevent wood from cracking. Larch is also appreciated for its golden color, dark markings and straight grain. Although coarse in texture, it is smooth to the touch and virtually has no raised grain. Owners may choose any shade of finishing or leave its natural silver grey color
The City of Venice was constructed on platforms raised above water, and resting on piles made of Siberian Larch. After 1400 years some of the piles were inspected. It turned out that larch piles serving as a base for the underwater part of the city have become so hard that cutting them either with an axe or with a saw is next to impossible
Larch decking requires no further maintenance and has a number of advantages. This product is suitable for residential decks and walkways as well as commercial and public spaces
Created by Kristine Inkster, Arbortech Executive Director
Novice woodworker? No
Description of your wood art?
The base of a lamp for the home.
Where did you get your inspiration for your wood art piece?
The piece of wood. I carved this piece because I was running out of time before the event was to be judged and saw this piece of cypress pine which I thought would make a good lamp base.
What type of wood did you use?
What Arbortech tool/s did you use to create this piece?
What was your process in the creation of this project?
I cut it in half to make two pieces the same size and then drew a rough shape for the neck before cutting each piece with a bandsaw. After deciding which sides I wanted to show as the external edge of the lamp, I then ran a channel for the wiring down the center of each piece using the Arbortech Mini-Grinder with the Industrial Blade attached.
Once I had the channel I could glue both pieces together so I could start shaping. I then used the TURBOPlane to take off the edges and give me that nice rounded rectangular shape.
When I was satisfied with the shape I used the Contour Sander to sand the neck and sides. I then used oil to finish off as I wanted a matte finish before threading the wiring through and gluing in a small piece of aluminum tubing into the top to make it look a little nicer. Then I purchased a lamp shade which suited the base and have placed it on the entry hall table.
Where does this piece reside now?
Entry hall table in my house. See picture below of the lamp being displayed at my house.